Highland Coast Hotels: Stunning views and great food – my stay at dog friendly Tongue and Plockton

Not even non-stop rain could ruin my first - but not my last - trip around Scotland's north coast, visiting dog-friendly Highland Coast Hotels in Tongue and Plockton.

By Alastair Gossip

November 5 2023, 6:00 am

Magnus the cairn terrier makes himself at home at the Tongue Hotel. Image: Alastair Gossip/DC Thomson

Chasing myself around the Berriedale Braes, my weekend is off to a bad start.

The windy A9 Inverness to Latheron road feels no place for a clueless overtake, so we join the Dutch touring convoy as the minutes drag on.

The motorbikes and support cars tootle through the bends, their registration plates burning into my brain.

Windswept and interesting: You can't go all that way and not visit John o' Groats. Image: Alastair Gossip/DC Thomson — Windswept and interesting: You can’t go all that way and not visit John o’ Groats. Image: Alastair Gossip/DC Thomson

But they can’t be blamed for taking time along the dramatic east coastline as, miles away, our distillery tour sets off.

We veer off to salvage something from the first stint off our journey north.

As a novice on Highland roads I learn a valuable lesson: Google Maps know nothing.

NC500 road trip: Tongue Hotel

The boy is not impressed. Image: Alastair Gossip/DC Thomson — The boy is not impressed in John o’ Groats. Image: Alastair Gossip/DC Thomson

But admitting defeat on the gin tour allowed us – my girlfriend, my dog and I – a detour to one of the best-known sights along the famous North Coast 500.

After a photoshoot and a wander at John o’ Groats, it’s back in the car to make Tongue in time for dinner.

Tongue Hotel is surrounded by beautiful Highland scenery. Image: Highland Coast Hotels

The more empty September roads allow plenty of stopping to “ooh” at the stunning scenery.

But we don’t want pause for too long, as our mouths water at the thought of our tea.

Originally built as a hunting lodge for the Dukes of Sutherland, Tongue Hotel is a welcome sight as we roll down the hill.

Magnus getting comfy at Tongue Hotel, in one of Highland Coast Hotels' dog-friendly rooms. Image: Alastair Gossip/DC Thomson — Magnus getting comfy at Tongue Hotel, in one of Highland Coast Hotels’ dog-friendly rooms. Image: Alastair Gossip/DC Thomson

Every bit a classic tartan-carpeted Scottish country inn, the large warm bedrooms offer plenty space to rest after the day’s rushing and exploring – and for a case of the zoomies.

Dog safely deposited, we head to the hotel’s Varrich restaurant, which takes its name from the castle on a nearby hill.

A feast fit for a chief

Scallops and Stornoway black pudding, served with pickled apples, cauliflower and squid ink puree, wasabi and red caviars, salty finger sea vegetables and oyster leaf. Image: Alastair Gossip/DC Thomson

Castle Varrich is thought to be 1,000 years old and was the ancient seat of the Clan Mackay.

And the feast of local game championed by our hosts Highland Coast Hotels is certainly fit for a chief.

Highlights include thick, creamy Cullen skink, scallops with Stornoway black pudding and gorgeous Argday venison.

The Ardgay venison at the Varrich restaurant at the Tongue Hotel, served with parsnip puree, potato terrine, braised red cabbage, pickled salsify, brambles and a red wine jus. Image: Alastair Gossip/DC Thomson

Well fed and cosy, it’s a comfortable night’s sleep.

Our dog-friendly room is right next to a fire exit, offering easy (unalarmed, we were assured) backdoor access.

But those out for a midnight toilet trip, beware. The garden, adjacent to the A838 road west, could be more enclosed.

Castle Varrich and Coldbackie beach make the trip to Tongue

The view of the castle from the Varrich restaurant at Tongue Hotel. Image: Alastair Gossip/DC Thomson

We race the sun up the hill to Castle Varrich in the morning.

The amble up a gradual incline takes about 30 minutes, at least with a dog snoofling around in the bog.

View of the Kyle of Tongue from the viewing platform at Castle Varrich, a short walk from Tongue Hotel. Image: Alastair Gossip/DC Thomson

There’s a metal viewing platform offering vistas of Kyle of Tongue and the surrounding hills, including Ben Loyal and most northerly Munro Ben Hope, too.

A full Scottish breakfast sets up the day as we leave, going back on ourselves to nearby Coldbackie beach.

Beneath a crofting township, the sands are a long enclosed runway to let the dog loose.

Coldbackie beach, near Tongue. Image: Alastair Gossip/DC Thomson

It’s a blustery walk on a September day, but worth it for views, the caves and little waterfall at its western end.

White horses and rain chase us as we are blown back up the slope to the car, just as the weather turns.

Views across Kyle of Tongue from Coldbackie beach. Image: Alastair Gossip/DC Thomson

Plockton: The jewel of the Highlands

The main Plockton Inn building on the left, and the annex, where our room was, directly across the road. Image: Highland Coast Hotels

The downpour is such that we forego adding miles onto the journey to have lunch at the boutique Kylesku Hotel.

A quick chips stop in Ullapool breaks up the drive, as we race the worst of the rain south west towards Plockton.

The meandering road into the village, about six miles from the Skye bridge, feels tropical as the barrage of rain batters the leafy canopy above.

The modern, artsy room at Plockton Inn. Image: Alastair Gossip/DC Thomson

Mist and rain up the valley makes the palm tree lined Loch Carron below seem a remote lagoon, en route to the Plockton Inn.

Our modern, nautical-themed room is in a cottage annexed to the main hotel, restaurant and bar across the road.

"I've been expecting you." Making ourselves at home in the dog-friendly room at Plockton Inn. Image: Alastair Gossip/DC Thomson — “I’ve been expecting you.” Making ourselves at home in the dog-friendly room at Plockton Inn. Image: Alastair Gossip/DC Thomson

Community spirit for breakfast

But within minutes of sitting down to eat in the cosy bar, a very apologetic member of staff tells us the deluge outside has even shut the kitchen.

Emergency rations at Plockton Inn. Image: Alastair Gossip/DC Thomson

Emergency sandwiches and wine are sent up to the rooms, as managers scramble to find a plumber ASAP.

But you can tell a lot about a business, and a place, by what they do in times of crisis.

The aptly named Haven Guest House welcomes all in for breakfast the next day as work starts to get next door’s kitchen back up and running.

Magnus with his favourite new tennis ball, courtesy of Plockton Inn. Image: Alastair Gossip/DC Thomson

Magnus, too, is full of praise. A welcome bundle of treats, a blanket and tennis ball – rarely out his mouth weeks on – make the Plockton Inn feel more dog-friendly than the also accommodating Tongue Hotel.

Breathtaking scenery around Plockton

Accepting we’ll be drenched on the long drive home, we start the day with a walk to the little island just off the pier, only accessible when the tide is out.

"It's not getting any better, boy." The moody sky above Plockton. Image: Alastair Gossip/DC Thomson — “It’s not getting any better, boy.” The moody sky above Plockton. Image: Alastair Gossip/DC Thomson

The Coral Beach is another gem at Plockton, rightly known as the jewel of the Highlands.

A secluded little crescent, where the sandy cove meets lush green surroundings, it’s about a 20-minute walk from the car park at the top of the village.

It just emerges out of the trees as we walk down a small waterfall, which is probably usually just stone steps.