After travelling the North Coast 500 myself, it is easy to see why more than 30,000 people complete it each year.
I’ll admit, despite living in the Highlands for my whole life, I had no interest in doing the 516-mile route.
Family and friends had often told me of the busy roads during the summer and it sounded like a nightmare.
I didn’t feel like I was missing out, so when reporter Alberto Lejarraga and I set off on our adventure to tell the stories of the communities on the route, I didn’t expect to be wowed at all.
However, I was wrong, and it didn’t take long to realise the breath-taking views deserve their world fame, as do the endless winding roads.
It was also easy to see there was more to the North Coast 500 than first meets the eye.
For a series of stories on the route’s 10-year anniversary, we spoke to locals and businesses about their views on its impact.
Mixed responses allowed us an insight into the business benefits, but also over-tourism issues, which have led to some residents wanting the route “wound down”.
Is the North Coast 500 really the ‘ultimate road trip’?
The drive itself is phenomenal. Alberto and I split the trip, but I always looked forward to my time in the hot seat.
The first day took us from Inverness Castle to Torridon, where we spent our first night in the youth hostel.
Stopping in Beauly, Achnasheen, Strathcarron and Applecross really allowed us to take in some of the stunning nature we were surrounded by.
Driving the famous Bealach na Ba bends was very cool, and definitely one of the highlights of the trip for me.
Admittedly, we’d picked an out-of-season time to do the NC500 and I felt we were pretty fortunate with the roads.
We came across the odd campervan, but for most of the way it was pretty plain-sailing, which definitely made it more enjoyable.
I can’t imagine those single-track roads during the summer, so chock-a-block you may well be quicker walking.
Applecross Inn owner Judith Fish told us of the drama caused when campervans face off on these roads.
She said: “The traffic has become a real issue for here. The roads aren’t made for campervans and motorhomes and some of them can be terrifying.”
Poor infrastructure or over-tourism?
It was very easy to see why Ms Fish believes the roads are unsuitable for certain vehicles – because they are.
But to go one step further, some of the roads are unsuitable for all vehicles. It’s pothole galore, and it really makes me wonder how the supercars make it back in one piece.
The infrastructure, especially on the West Coast, needs some major upgrades.
Former NC500 Ltd chairman David Whiteford believes infrastructure is needed to support the huge number of visitors now coming to the area.
He said: “There’s no doubt that some people living close to the route are unhappy with the extra traffic and unsavoury actions of a few motorhome users.
“However, while there may be some pinch points, I don’t believe it suffers from over-tourism, it just needs better infrastructure.”
It’s hard not to agree, the North Coast 500 infrastructure is a major issue and cannot put up with the route’s “success”.
So, as it celebrates its 10-year anniversary, why hasn’t anything been done about it?
NC500 Ltd business development manager David Richardson said discussions are under way with Highland Council and other parties.
As for over-tourism, the road trip did find its way onto Fodor’s Travel’s annual no-travel list, suffering from “untenable popularity.”
But I think the bigger issue is responsible tourism. On my trip I saw signs which I hoped would not be needed.
I’d like to think the majority of people who travel our famous roads respect them and pick up after themselves.
But, as they say, it’s the hope that kills you.
Housing issues
One of the key issues people had brought to our attention, and we were keen to investigate, was housing.
Locals said they struggled to buy as properties were being snapped up as holiday homes and short-term lets.
If this was the case, it would be catastrophic. It would kill small settlements and maybe even entire villages.
But, speaking to estate agents, they all seemed to agree that around 6% of properties sold each year are short-term lets.
So, maybe the problem isn’t as bad as it seems. That being said, a visit to Lochcarron and Robin Pettigrew said he has seen wrecks snapped up for “stupid money”.
Housing is a bigger issue on the West Coast, so it was good to read this week housing for locals is to be built in Scourie in order to tackle depopulation.
North Coast 500 is not an ‘unmitigated disaster’
During a debate where I engaged with readers over views on the North Coast 500, one person said the route had been an “unmitigated disaster”.
Their reasoning was the route brought nothing but “litter and human waste” with “freeloaders in vans occupying their caravans wherever they like”.
I do agree campervans have been a bigger issue than people anticipated, despite attempts by Highland Council to push a motorhome parking charge.
However, I don’t agree it has been a disaster. The NC500 has brought great success for some businesses.
Westlea B&B owner Michael Mackay said it has “brought more eyes onto the area” and gives more people a reason to visit Thurso.
He said: “Of course it would be good to have more people coming and staying for longer, but why? There’s nothing in Thurso for some people.”
A year after its creation, a study revealed the “absolutely incredible” impact of the route on tourism and business in the Highlands.
And according to research for Highlands and Islands Enterprise (HIE), in just the first two years local businesses were boosted by 15-20% year-on-year.
But, there has clearly been negative impacts for some. Despite ongoing engagement with communities, it seems more is needed.
Maybe the North Coast 500 isn’t perfect and doesn’t work for everyone, but it works for some and there are ways of making it work for more.
Locals have to be looked after as best as possible, before we end up with a new version of the Highland Clearances.
Conversation